A healing space

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• DIY Faraday cage

David Dec. 2017 The effects of having a strong cage really have to be experienced to be believed. I've had more progress in the last six months using my cage than the preceding six years on the MP. Just now I'm starting to feel my mind is returning to a level that I haven't experienced since I was 19 years old - right before I got sick. It's simply amazing.

TM “Our home has a smart meter affixed to the outside, and the strip of wall 4 ft wide behind it is painted with yShield. The rest of the wall is stucco, with a chicken-wire mesh insert. Meters are directional, beaming 10dB more out the front than its rear.

yShield is applied to the inside of those other walls where RF is coming in. Windows are metalized. The bedroom, 60ft distant at the far corner of the house, sees a -75dBm backround noise, and no significant peaks from the neighbors' DECT phones, or the smart meters (nothing going to a problematic amplitude above -60dBm). The rest of the house is average -65dBm, and smartmeter noise is not a problem there, either. The problems come from the 4G transmitter a mile and a half away in the Los Robles Hospital carpark, but line-of-sight from us, hill-to-hill, and from the neighbors DECT phones and 4G pico-cells. You just can't generalize when talking about Microwave RF sources, unfortunately.”

“we have a concrete slab single-story detached house. The slab does a great job, without needing any 'help'… But certainly we have used the 8mil aluminum shim in our roof, and it worked OK there (with 2ft wide strips overlapped about 3 inches).

How much shielding do you need? Well, several of us, the ones who have been trying to establish a threshold of “perfection,” can notice a big difference between -60dBm (where the sniffer goes quiet on HI sensitivity) and below. Our Faraday cage is in a -65dBm to -75dBm room (depends on frequency) and it makes a huge difference to symptoms and comfort. So when you are still sensitive, shielding of the order of 25dB is better achieved with #92 clothing, in my opinion.

A sleeping cage/tent should give 40-50dB of shielding to be fully effective in the average metropolitan environment, IMO

-35dBm (Sniffer on LO, about 3 ticks per second) starting point 55dBm shielding results in -90dBm electrosmog, or about the level the 27MHz CWS puts out, and still around 3 bars on a cellphone receiver. It really is better to get another 20dB on top of this, preferably by starting with a better environment (-60dBm).

- Dr Marshall, 29 April 2017

Now here is the $64,000 question - how low does the electrosmog have to go so that adequate healing is maintained? We don't yet have an answer, and it will vary from person to person - depending on location and degree of inflammation. It is certainly an environment where the sniffer red light never goes on. I am comfortable with saying that a silent sniffer on HI sensitivity indicates an adequate sleep environment, even though I know that a Faraday cage is much better. I think this is because the body is sensitive to EM starting at amplitude zero, and the damage builds as the amplitude increases. Each person will need to find the point at which they fail to get extra benefit while sleeping, and regress while working.

- Dr Marshall, 22 April 2017

When you sleep in below about -60dBm the immune system will start to kick in. Then it will increase and change organs at about 10dB intervals: for me at -70dBm, -80dBm and -90dBm. Mike has found his body is even more sensitive than this.

Going cold turkey into a Faraday cage may not be comfortable, but you can leave the door open at first

- Trevor, 16 July 2016

Exploring an EMF/EHS "White Zone"

Here is a list of all the tools, supplies, and accessories to build a Faraday Cage “Big Enough to Sleep In.” This is the cage originally designed by Prof. Marshall and redone with an external hatch which uses spring-clamps instead of magnets to complete the seal, making completing the cage a much easier process. This is a work in progress and probably needs to be edited as new information and assembly techniques become available. When this document becomes and active wiki, it will be easy to keep this list updated.

Most of the supplies can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes. I used Home Depot in most of my links simply because it’s the warehouse that I used, but Lowes will be able to provide similar tools and supplies. Some of the links need to be ordered online and I’ve made notes next to the link for these items.

I’m not sure when I’ll get to the first step of the assembly instructions, but if you are very motivated to start on this, send me a PM or post a reply here and I’ll put something together to get you started.

Best, David

Tools

1. Electric Drill / Screw Driver with Phillips-head bit
2. Scissors
3. Tape measurer
4. PVC cutter
5. Step ladder
6. Carpet knife
7. Black permanent marker
8. 1/6” drill bit
9. Heat Shrink Tubing, for connecting AC/DC converter to fans. Quantity: 1 box (purely optional - you could just use electrical tape instead. Or you could solder the connections.)
10. Heat Gun (optional - see above)
11. Wire stripper

Supplies

1. .75” x 2.5“ x 6' wood plank - quantity: 10 (I couldn't find these online, but my local Home Depot sells these under the name “Claymark Select Pine.” You’ll need Home Depot to cut these for you which they'll do free of charge. You’ll need four 4’ planks and six 43” planks. These will be used to assemble your hatch and hatch frame.)
2. 6 in. x 6 in. 14-Gauge L Strap - quantity: 12
3. 48” wide Radiant Barrier Foil - 500 sq ft (Purchased online.)
4. 1/2” x 10’ PVC pipe: quantity: 10 (If you have a small car, use the PVC cutter to cut the 10’ pipes into 4’ and 6’ segments)
5. 1/2” PVC connectors:
   1. 45 degree elbow - quantity: 6
   2. Cross - quantity: 2
   3. Tee - quantity: 4
   4. 4-way Tee, (10 pack) quantity: 1 (Couldn’t find this in store so you’ll need to buy online in the 10 pack. You actually only need 5 of these, but the remaining 5 can be turned into a 3-way Tee with the PVC cutter.)
   5. 3-way Tee - quantity: 1 (You’ll actually need six of these. But if you but the the 10 pack 4-way Tee (above), you can make five of the 3-way Tee and the remaining one can be purchased in store) - Door Pull Handle - quantity: 2
6. 8 in. UV Cable Tie - Black (20-Pack) - quantity: 2
7. 9/16” NM Staples, 19-pack - quantity: 1 package (16 staples needed)
8. 1/16” drill bit
9. #8 1/2” Pan Head Phillips screws, 100 count - quantity: 2 boxes
10. 1” 4’x8’ Foamular Insulation (have Home Depot cut in quarters so it will fit in you car. Also smaller pieces will be easier to place and remove once you cage is complete - i.e. for cleaning floor.)
11. 2” Irwin Spring Clamps - quantity: 12 (Home Depot also sells a 2” spring clamp for $.99 but it’s cheaply made and the rubber they use has a very strong odor).
12. Copper Tape - quantity: 4 rolls (6 rolls might be better as your hunt down various leaks and stray signals. In many areas of my cage I've needed an extra layer of Attic Foil)
13. Cooling Fan - quantity: 2
14. AC/DC Converter for Fans - quantity: 2
15. 1.5” Aluminum Bar - quantity: 1 (This will be used to make your hatch guide tabs. You will need some way to cut this to make the four 2” guide tabs. A hack saw with a aluminum cutting blade will probably work. Or PM me and I can cut tabs for you with my mitre saw and send to you.)
16. 1/8” Metal drill bit (For drilling holes in aluminum tabs for mounting.)
17. 32”x16” Vinyl Floor Tiles - quantity: 2 boxes (Order online. Couldn't find these in store.)
18. Honeycomb Grid, 1/8” Cell, 1” thick, 5”x5” (Currently this item on eBay is a 10”x10” sheet. The seller will cut in four squares for you get you the two 5×5’s.)
19. Power fail alarm (Order online.)

Testing Tools

1. Kaito WRX-911 Shortwave Radio (Buy online.)
2. Cornet ED85EXS Electrosmog Meter
3. Long Whip Antenna (Need updated information on where to get this. The link that Prof. Marshall provided on eBay is no longer active.)

Accessories

1. LCD Battery Operated Lights (Order online.)
2. AAA rechargeable batteries (Order online.)
3. Battery Charger (Order online.)
4. AeroBed (You can buy online or from Costco. I think Walmart and Target also sells these.)
5. Vintage Wind up Travel Alarm (I like these old travel alarms - compact and very quite ticking. But if you don’t mind loud ticking, then…)
6. Wind-Up Alarm Clock (Order online.)
7. Writing Desk. (Order online. This desk fits perfectly inside cage and is wide enough to use both desk and Aerobed inside cage. I like this desk since I’m sensitive to fiber board which this desk has none. Be aware though that this wood is unfinished so you might want to use a wood sealant on it.
8. Desk Chair. (Can be purchased from any office supply store or online. I use a similar armless chair (since I practice guitar inside cage). It weights less than 20 lbs and is easy to put up on desktop for sleeping.)
9. EPUB Converter

(My favorite program for converting Kindle eBooks into doc files that I can print out with MS Word. When you are not sleeping, being inside cage can be rather boring, not to mention feeling bad due to the increase in IP. You might as well have some good books to keep you occupied. Note: Converting Kindle eBooks requires an older Kindle desktop version (version 1.17.0 or earlier). Newer versions of Kindle will prevent you from converting them to paper. Search web for older Kindle versions.)

  
  The footprint is 4'x8' and height a little over 7' .

Laura 1848 Are there any results of experiments with sleeping bags?

Has anyone experimented with using the mesh as drapery like mosquito netting?

I have a four-poster bed, and could conceivably drape mesh fabric around it, perhaps with a layer under the mattress, to make an old-fashioned mosquito-net-type thing.

… How about with just a plain top “sheet” of the fabric as a layer on the bed?

Joyful The tent made of Staticot is as good as one made from Soft & Safe or even made all of the #30. The reasons for going to Staticot are durability and cost of materials.

The design and construction is discussed starting here:

   https://marshallprotocol.com/view_topic.php?id=16583&forum_id=11&jump_to=308591#p308591

Photos: Shielding Tent Photos (These are of the Soft & Safe prototype, but design is same.)

For the Do-It-Yourself types ready to get started here is my recipe… Here is what you will need for each tent:

  Kids bed tent frame
  Mesh #30
  Staticot fabric
  Sewing Machine
  Sewing machine needles
  Ordinary sewing thread

Each is discussed below.

Kids Bed Tent The frame is discussed earlier in this topic and can be ordered online for $30 at IKEA's site. It just fits inside the width of the sleeping tube and is strong enough for this design. The interior width is very roomy.

Mesh #30 The entrance to the tent is made from Mesh #30 for two reasons. To allow for an effortless seal of the entrance once inside and to make it possible to have air flow into the tent by using a fan outside the tent that moves air through the Mesh #30.

You will need to order at least 3' length of this fabric discussed here: Silver #30 Mesh Fabric. Typically, it will arrive in about 2-3 weeks.

The fabric comes by the square meter. The width is about 5' wide and this this is nearly the same width as the Staticot fabric which makes the construction work together well.

You only will want 2 pieces of 18“ x 5' for the sleeping tent, but I recommend you order 3 or more square meters as it can be used for scarves around the head or be constructed into mesh hoods to use when you aren't sleeping. Ordering more also means you can make a longer flap on one side of the tent tube to make a larger flap opening.

Staticot The body of the tent made from Staticot is same design as the first one made from the more expensive Soft&Safe material. It was a little harder to sew through as the fabric is more like denim. This is the only down side of the Staticot, but it could be easier to work with if it had been washed a couple times before sewing. I did not do this.

You will need to order at least 15' or 17' length of Staticot from LessEMF.com for the body of tent. LessEMF is located in New York, USA. Products typically arrive 3-6 days after ordering for US customers. (Shipping can add up so order enough the first time to save on shipping.)

Sewing I used a beginner's Simple Singer 2263 which I found at my local Walmart for $89. It is totally adequate for this work but I recommend you find a small local shop to have a “tune-up” on your machine before starting. Larger shops can charge $100 or more for a tune-up. I found a young man in business for himself (via a local sewing school) that charges $40 and does a great job.

For this sleeping tent you are only sewing straight lines. And you don't have to work fast or get everything just right. Be brave, gather your sense of adventure and think about giving this a try (see: Tips and Tricks for Sewing with Denim).

When you are picking out thread and needles, I recommend you read the manual for your sewing machine for tips. There really is helpful information in the manual. :)

Threads used for denim are a little heavier. Here is an example of the kind thread recommended: COATS & CLARK Dual Duty Plus Denim Thread, 125-Yard, Denim Blue. Link: denim thread

My Singer manual recommends changing the needle every other garment or so. For this project, you might want a new needle for each tent. I used a size 80/14 needle but it wasn't really working well. Size 100/16 is recommended for denim. (You could probably even use a heavy duty size 110/18). The manual recommended to only use Singer brand needles on my Singer machine.

To prepare the seam between the Staticot and the Mesh #30, I recommend folding and ironing the edge of the Staticot twice to make a clean folded edge you can tuck the mesh into aftewards.*

Warning: DON'T IRON THE MESH. It is the same quality as nylon stockings and will melt onto your iron in a sticky plastic mess.

Marysue has this tent. She is using it without the tent part.

It is laid on her bed like a sleeping bag and she folds the #30 mesh over her face to make a completely enclosed shielded space without feeling too closed in.

She lives out in the country and they have turned all their wireless devices off at night for a while now, but she is really noticing how it is helping her to awake feeling rested. Today she told me that she can use it for a quick nap to recover from anything that comes up during that day.

*

wirion the future is plastic! As sleep protection idea I would like to make a “coffin” out of PVC piping, 2m x 1m x 0.5m, putting a fabric sleeve around it.

There are different sizes of PVC piping, and there are two compatible systems. The international or European DN system (diametre nominal) with DN32, DN40, etc. meaning 32mm, 40mm inner diameter and the United States NPS, with the correspondance here: European DN system

I think the US sizes are nominally in inches, quarter inches etc. but in reality they're the same as in the DN system, so they're usually a little different from what's nominally stated, e.g. 1 inch could be e.g. 0.98 inch or so.

There's also something called schedule 40, schedule 80 and schedule 120. Those are about the outer diameter, the pipes with thicker outer diameter are for high pressure fluid transfer. As structural elements for small projects only schedule 40 makes sense.

The cool thing about PVC piping as structural elements is that you have lots of different connectors/fittings (elbow, tee, 3-branch, 4-branch) as shown here: connectors as well as accessories. That site, FormuFit is really well made, with sketchup models and construction ideas.

Joyful Important fabrication tips:

  Pipes are dirty and should be wiped with a wet rag before assembling.
  Connectors can have burrs that could snag fabric. Take some sandpaper to them.
  Once pipes are assembled, you may not be able to get them back apart. A couple pair of vice grips may come in handy for disassembly. An alternative might be to sand ends of pipes before assembly to keep them from having such a strong grip.
  For placing the "tee" couplings close to the "45" couplings, you may have to really push hard on a sturdy surface to get it fully seated.</blockquote>
  
  I ended up buying 60 feet of the PVC pipe for my design (6 x 10' pieces).

Pipe lengths: 15 x 35” PVC pipe for bottom and lengthwise supports

2 x 15"     PVC pipe for middle vertical supports
2 x 13.5"  PVC pipe for corner vertical supports
6 x   5"     PVC pipe for horizontal top supports
6 x 11"     PVC pipe for center piece on top angled sides

12 x 1 5/8“ PVC pipe for “45 angle” to “tee” connectors

Slip coupling connectors: 12 x “tee” 12 x “45 angle”

5 x "cross" (for middle connectors)
4 x "90 w/ threaded side outlet"  (for the bottom corners)
4 x "male adapter" (these are used in the bottom corners)

I am pretty sure this has far more structural strength than is needed for lighter fabrics.

bunk tents… but the price seems a bit high on this site: Privacy Pop Bed Tent Link: https://amzn.com/B006XBJ3UI

Actually, doing a search, there are a number of self-supporting frames…

Picnic Time Manta Portable Pop-Up Sun/Wind Shelter Link: https://amzn.com/B0071IE8BQ

Joyful CC

Prof. Marshall responds I guess that Bunk tents wouldn't look so strange with mesh covering… That's a lot of Silver30# fabric, though, even at the 100yd roll price… (about half the Aliexpress price).

Interesting to read the user comments about being great for autistic kids…

And there's this: travellor's tent

and this: pop-up mozzie tent

Here is the folding procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLyT37klGC4

Nyima Or this, as a modification to the bloc-bag:

modified

“The sleep tents are very nice way to get a decent sleep and 'recharge' the body for another day of 'insults'

As with the IP we experienced when starting Olmesartan, we also have to be careful as the shielding starts to reactivate parts of our immune systems the olmesartan wasn't able to 'penetrate' on its own.

After 6 months in good full-body shielded clothing in a -65dBm home environment I am sensing recovery, and can freely go shopping (etc) without any after-effects. After another 6 months of reports from Joyful, Mike, Hoffer and myself I think we will know a lot more about how long a full recovery is going to take…”

illustrates Canada project.

A member in Canada

built this frame

with PVC pipes

and connectors

most LED flashlights have a Digital switching power supply inside them to change the battery voltage to something which will drive the LEDs.

This light from Amazon doe not have generate any noise: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IUIA73Y but you must keep the contact area around the switch contacts spotlessly free of residue and oils. Wipe it whenever you change the batteries.

I think it's this one: Husky 60 Lumen Virtually Unbreakable Aluminum Pen Light with Clip

I have the other one but even after basic cleaning I can't get it to stay lit. I will try a more meticulous cleaning to see if I can save it. Meanwhile, I've ordered a 4 pack of the same item for about $17.

I still use one in my cage, as the switching frequency is so low (audio), and I rarely switch it on.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEOII9K

Test it in your Faraday cage with your new low frequency antenna and the Cornet. See if the level changes when you switch on and off the flashlight

To keep the resistance low, and give good attenuation at low frequencies, the wonderful new conductive-adhesive copper tape is absolutely your friend. Use it to cover everything, even patches of weakness in the cage (where flexing has caused the aluminum to flake.

When installing the main 'loop' around the cage make sure you tape BOTH SIDES of the aluminum foil. If there is a foot of overlap, for example, then apply the special tape on each side individually, on top, and on bottom.

Tapes Master 2” x 36 Yds Copper Foil Tape - EMI Shielding Conductive Adhesive tape $22.95 USD (free shipping if have a Prime account) Link: https://a.co/7c461M4

Markt Oct.2017

My “Johns Manville” 3/4“ AP Foil Faced Foam Sheeting measures “0” Ohms over the 5.5

feet that my test cables reach

Think about getting a good seal, and getting a low resistance 'shorted turn.' If you put the aluminium on the inside, carefully taped together it will probably be easier to ensure no gaps anywhere that aren't taped. It also gives you the option of putting some extra foil around the outside at a later point to get a lower resistance shorted turn, in which gaps are less important. I am testing 0.003inch 4ft wide aluminum shim at the moment, a loop of that around the insulated outside would probably make a big difference at some point in the future

(Q) I haven't yet found a place to buy it, but would 1/16 in. aluminum honeycomb core raise the shielding frequency of an air vent to higher than 50 GHz? I am thinking about future WiGig in 60GHz bands. Is there some mathematical formula you used to calculate the dBm shielding effect for the 1/8 in. core that I can use to get an idea of the different shielding effects based on the core diameter?

(A) There are lots of complex formulae, but one webpage is especially useful

https://rfcalculator.mobi/circular-waveguide-attenuation.html

Put in 55000 for frequency, 3.18 mm for diameter and 25mm for length (thickness of honeycomb) and you get 24.97dB as attenuation.

You can see that the attenuation changes with frequency, and also with length of waveguide that the wave must get through.

My browser gives a “NaN” (not a number) error when the attenuation falls to zero at higher frequencies (above 60,000 in this case). Ignore it :)

On the more general problem of attenuating WiGig, millimetre wave signals really do not traverse barriers (walls) well, and are completely stopped by just a few mm of moisture. Typically that means a WiGig signal should not traverse from house to house. Lower frequency signals at 40GHz, whose high-power dishes you see on so many of the cellular towers, will be stopped by the 1/8 honeycomb, and it was stray beams from those which mainly concerned me.

(comment) on a graphing calculator or a page like https://www.desmos.com/calculator , the formula y=(16/(3.18/50.8))*√(1-¹⁾/3.46)^2) will give you a graph with y as the dB attenuation and x as the frequency in MHz for a 1 inch thick grid of 1/8in honeycomb. For anyone interested, the full formula would be y=(16/(a/50.8))*√(1-²⁾/3.46)^2)*(z/25.4) where y is the dB attenuation, x is the frequency in MHz, a is the diameter of the grid holes in mm, and z is the thickness of the grid in mm.

(Q) I thought it only cost around $11.00? (A) The 1/4 inch honeycomb is that price. Perhaps you were thinking of 1/4” rather than the 1/8“? A one inch thick slab of 1/4” honeycomb would cut off at around 25GHz, rather than 50GHz, which is probably high enough. It would certainly clear even the highest WiFi frequency at 6GHz or so…

I use an analog cassette machine (my old Sony D6C) to play my relaxation music when I am in the Faraday Cage. Others might like to use it for audio-books

But since I often get my best ideas when I am sleeping, I also needed something to quickly take voice memos which doesn't generate much noise. Anything which draws really low standby power from Lithium watch batteries, or which has a switch totally disabling it in standby is most suitable.

This device is quiet enough: The Olympus Note Corder 200 (or 300):

https://www.olympus-global.com/en/news/1996/nr960531ncorde.html

But they are very hard to find. The Olympus Note Corder DP-10 has an ON / OFF switch, and runs pretty quiet in any case. They are a little more complex to use, but you can find them on Ebay around $25 from time to time:

Also, I have decided to add one more 50 dB layer to the tent because I am still receiving the AM radio station and feel that the extra layer will finally kill the reception. My goal is zero detectable RF signals for the ‘recovery tent’ and to achieve that, 200 dB of shielding is needed. Absurd, I know, but it is what it is. I make no defense, claims, or recommendations to anyone else on this subject, but so far the stepwise addition of shielding has led to stepwise significant benefit in both function and reduced recovery time. I am still amazed. And at week’s end my mood is elevated, I’m cheerful, and mind is clear.

mvanwink5 posted: Mon Oct 12th, 2015 So, nothing has changed in that regard and therefore canopies are what works for me and it looks like unless the RF is especially high such as on a trip, garments don’t work. I don’t have a handy explanation as to why canopy shielding (for me) improves symptoms and garments increase symptoms, but I don’t buy the notion that the symptom escalation resulting from shielding garments is necessarily beneficial immune pathology. Still, I have garments being made from 87# fabric and will hold some reservation until they arrive, and then there is the last resort which is garments made from Soft-n-Safe fabric. Hope springs eternal…

AND Oct 19th, 2015

At this point, my belief it that zero RF is needed for sleep recovery based on experience with the recovery tent, and shielding garments are needed when outside shielded zones (minimal torso and pants plus whatever I can get away with for the head). I realize that I have no evidence to backup my belief, however, an area of persistent squamous cells seems to wax and wane with use of the 200 dB shielded tent (four 50 dB nested canopies), at least that is my perception. Also, muscle knots seem to recover only when I spend 2 hours inside the recovery tent but not when inside the workstation with 100 dB of shielding (two 50 dB nested canopies). Again, this is just my perception

Prof. Marshall comments My guess is that at 10GHz and above the mesh fabrics are streets ahead of the bamboo fabrics. I need to figure out how to test at these frequencies

davidmac Nov.2017 Finished my redesign of my cage door. The problem with the original design (internal flap made from Attic Foil) was that I was unable to totally eliminate nighttime AM signals (nighttime is when AM signals are strongest due to ionosphere effect.) The best way to test for this is to simply have a transistor radio inside the cage and see if any AM stations can be picked up between midnight and 6am.

This new design - an external hatch - is far from perfect but it does get the job done for the most part. I used 2.5” x .75” wood planks for both the hatch and the frame. Both the frame and hatch are 4’x4’. The frame has the original steel bars facing outward.

Frame with Steel Bars Frame Attached with gaffer tape over bars

For the hatch I used a handheld router to countersink two of the neodymium magnets per side.

Routed holes for magnets Hatch from pre-assembled

I used L-Brackets to assemble both the frame and hatch

L-Brackets Hatch Assembled with L-brackets

I originally tried to attach the hatch directly to the frame bars with the magnets pressed up in contact with the bars. The problem was that the magnets are too strong to have direct contact with the steel bars - I was unable to remove the hatch easily with this setup. I added 1/8” aluminum bars in front of the magnets and that worked. I also used two more planks on the hatch to attach handles (also with L-brackets) to assist in attaching and removing hatch.

Hatch with magnets and handles Hatch with aluminum bars for creating gap for magnets

The hatch was then covered the Grainger Aluminum Foil. The Steel bars of the frame were also covered with Grainger Foil. I used Copper Foil Tape to attach aluminum foil to frame and hatch.

Hatch with foil attached Cage with hatch not attached Cage with hatch attached

The problem with the design is that I’m still unable to get a perfect seal. I still get a hairline gap that I can see light through during the day. Prof. Marshall suggested that the Grainger Foil might be too rigid to allow a solid connection between the magnets and the steel bars. So I think a better solution might be to use Attic Foil or a thinner aluminum foil - like Reynolds Wrap (more experimenting needed.) The work-around for this problem was to use many Irwin Spring Clamps to assist the magnets when the hatch is attached. I placed these at the corners and sides until I could see no visible light seeping through.

Inside view with spring clamps Inside view with closeup of spring clamp

As far as I can tell (more testing is needed), with the hatch and clamps, I’m getting no audible AM coming through during the night. IP remains very high inside cage even if it’s less than perfect which suggests a profound increase in immune activity with time spent inside cage.

Here are my latest Cornet Readings:

- Powered Amp w/ long antenna: -53.4 dB (-.4 dB improvement) - 88-108 Mhz Filter: -54.8 dB (+.4 dB) - Smart Meter 915 Mhz: -65 dB (same) - 2.46 GHz WiFi: -65 dB (same) - VLF 400 Mhz: -62.6 (-1.6 dB improvement) - VLF 800 Mhz: -59.2 (-1.2 dB improvement) - VHF 3100+ Mhz: -60.6 dB (-.6 dB improvement) - Powered Mini-Whip: -60 dB (same)

- Kaito radio AM night signal: no audible stations (need to test over several nights though)

Further Thoughts Perhaps a better design would be three magnets per side instead of just the two. Also I would suggest a thinner foil than the Grainger - perhaps that would ensure a better seal.

- why would you even need magnets?

If you have a rigid frame and a rigid hatch, then can't the spring clamps be used instead of magnets? Perhaps that would mean placing a clamp every six inches to ensure proper seal (I'm heading back to Lowe's in the next few days to purchase more). But without the need for magnets, that would mean not having to countersink magnets, not having to countersink bolt holes, not having to mount steel bars to frame, not having to worry about magnet strength, not having to worry about where to place magnets and how many to use, etc. Bottom line is that using clamps instead of magnets would make construction of a workable door much much easier.

Dec.2017 A few days ago I redid my hatch with the Attic Foil instead of the Grainger foil I had originally used. I also removed the steel bar, magnets, and aluminum bar. So it's simply a wood frame and a wood hatch covered with one layer of Attic foil. I also use four aluminum tabs as guide posts to line up the hatch with the frame - two located on the top of the frame and two located on one side. The hatch is sealed with 12, 2“ spring clamps - one clamp in each corner and two per side.

To date this is the best seal I've achieved since using my cage. The problem I was having was that I was unable to totally eliminate a very weak but present AM signal during the evening when AM signals are strongest. This new hatch design has totally solved this problem as far as I can tell - three days now and absolutely no AM station can be picked up on the Kaito radio at any time.

This also solves what I always thought was major hurdle for our members - building a cage door with a simple design and minimal tool upgrade. This hatch with spring clamps can be built with nothing more than an electric drill / screwdriver. Home Depot or Lowes will cut the wood to length and all that remains is assembling the pieces with the L-strap brackets.

In fact, I think most of cage - “big enough to live in” - can be built with no major tool investments outside of an electric drill / screwdriver with one exception. The only exception would be the honeycomb filter and aluminum guide tabs that would need a metal saw, metal drill bit, and vice. But I could provide these to members (or others could who have such tools) with a payment via paypal for supplies and shipping costs.

I should mentioned that since I redid the hatch with Attic Foil and eliminated all AM signals, IP has once again increased dramatically - massive chills, but sleeping like a rock inside.

Pictures: Attic Foil Hatch Sealed with Spring Clamps Aluminum Guide Tab

When I first started testing the Faraday Cage I built here, I made a video showing how my door-flap was closed by magnets, and the extreme RF-quietness inside the cage. You can even hear the signal being put out by the Cornet meter itself! And an MP3 player is radiating a very loud signal, just from its computing circuitry (there is no radio inside the MP3 player) just typically-noisy digital circuitry.

I recorded some audio using an old cassette recorder so I could get rid of the noise being emitted by the camera and the camera lighting! That allows you to hear the sound of the Cornet itself!

Take a look. These Faraday Cages are really not complex – just 'handyman' level stuff…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znaG7HFkGE8

Note that I have put some 3/16” plywood floor boards down to protect the aluminum foil that goes right around the framework, to give the “shorted turn” that is so important for AM radio rejection. You can see where the 2ft x 4ft floor-slabs are connected to the side pipes with a few plastic ties.

Joyful If you want to see photos of the bars with magnets (used to seal the door), you can get a closer look here:

https://goo.gl/photos/vqPW6DMXHCALSfwK6

Observations:

I really like my “room within a room” but I think it is too much trouble to ask anyone else to replicate it. I think there are better ways. In particular, I like how Rico's closet version doesn't require any large sheets of material to be brought to the house for fabrication, but the free standing pipe frame used by Prof. Marshall is probably going to be easier to make into kits that can be shipped out to interested members.

  It helps that I had a truck to bring home the 2 masonite floor pieces along with the 6 sheets of foam board. This is also something most people would find difficult to do. On top of all that, moving this box is going to require cutting it apart since it is not flexible and is too big for any of the door openings!
  I found I needed a pretty large work area. I probably needed at about 10' x 16' when I was sliding the masonite floor pieces into the box. I suppose it could be done in less space, but maybe with more chance of damage to the fragile walls of the box. The underside of the box was protected to some degree by the large rug I built it on. A regular workshop floor would need to have something laid on it.
  Due to effectiveness of special conductive adhesive on copper tape, I have been able to use extra wide heavy duty Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil for lining the floor and covering the 1/2" foam board used for the door section. If this really tests out to be effective, this is something others will likely benefit from knowing.
  The 4" wide copper tape was useful for the outside seams where the foam board panels joined but is was not strictly necessary. It is also harder to work with due to the large and very sticky surface.
  I found that the soft rounded handles of my scissors were very handy for smoothing down the edges of the copper foil tape to get them to bond better with the aluminum foil surfaces. The copper foil tape seems to lift at the edges sometimes. I'm not sure if it's from oils from my hands on the surface or something else. But diligent attention and "smoothing" seems to be helpful most of the time. And it is less likely to get a paper cut from the foil edge.
  This was an interesting project that took a lot more physical ability and time than I imagined. Lots of crawling around applying tape for a couple of days. I think I grew a lot of new neural circuits from all the crawling, but lots of muscles were sore the first week of my efforts. It is very lightweight and easy to move around, but due to it being held together with copper foil tape, it takes two people to turn on it's side to apply foil to the bottom seams, etc.
  The aluminum coating that came on the foam board is probably adequate but it is fragile. A fingernail, board corner, or even an elbow can ding it without it being easy to see that it is damaged. If I were to repeat this type of a "doll house bedroom" construction, I probably would not try to make the foam board foil a part of the shielding. Instead I would just line the whole interior in Reynolds wrap and secure the outside seams with regular clear shipping tape.. The amount of time spent taping might be the same or less even.
  Working with the very strong magnets is sometimes difficult. Almost feels a bit dangerous. Covering them with gaffer tape helps to get other things unstuck from them. Did I mention the magnets are very strong?

Tools I found useful:

safety glasses, sandpaper, dust cloths, small broom and dust pan, vacuum cleaner various size blocks to use for shims during construction box cutters, straight edge with standard measures marked, plywood board work surface analog multimeter, scissor, sharpie marker, wire strippers, electrical tape, nippers workbench with clamps and/or vise for working with aluminum angle bars hacksaw, rasp, small punch, hammer, cordless drill, 9/64“ drill bit, 1/2” counter sink bit small phillips screw driver, small adjustable wrench

Parts:

The cost of the 1“ thick x 4' x 8' Rmax insulating foam board was just under $20 each. I used six of them. A two pack of the very large rolls of the Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil at Costco is just under $14. I have used 1.5 rolls of the 2” x 36 yds Tapes Master copper foil tape bought for just under $30 each from lucentpath on Ebay. I also used about a third of a roll of the 4“ x 36 yds Tapes Master copper foil tape bought for just under $47 from lucentpath on Ebay. The floor is two sheets of 1/8” x 4' x 8' masonite bought for under $10 each from home depot. I used two sheets because it gave the floor surface more stability. They slide nicely on the side with a shiny white surface. I placed that side down so reduce chafing on the foil floor. You can get home depot to cut an inch off one of the long sides and about 3 inches off one of the long ends. I used a cutting tool to create rounded corner and then sanded all of the edges to keep the boards from damaging the foil floor/sides. 2 Antec TrueQuiet 140 fans 2 1“ x 5.5” x 5.5“ honeycomb RFR filters for air exchange 1 DC Adapter 4 steel straps for door opening, covered in gaffer tape (1/8” x 1.5“ x 48”) 4 aluminum angle bars for door (1/8“ thick, 1” x 1“ x 48”) 8 magnets each with 2 holes, size #6, to hold angle bars on door to steel straps on door opening 16 brass machine screws, size#6, 1/2“ long, with nuts and lock washers

Later additional comment:

The seal at the door of the Faraday cage is not holding up very well because it is a 90 degree angle at the seal. I'm thinking about updating the design by building a frame (as used in Prof. Marshall's attic foil Faraday cage).

Here are the photos of a much larger foam board Faraday cage I have now built:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/J9z6lUOhTYlq5OqP2

Still working on the seal at the door.

I am considering going back to the attic foil material for the seal if adding more magnets doesn't solve the problem.

small sleeping compartment photos

mvanwink5 Adding the jugs of water to the computer shield box was the missing piece of the shielding puzzle. Something has to be inside the shield box to absorb what the monitor and computer transmits or the shielding is significantly less effective. A breakthrough for me.

I am starting to feel that if I can keep up this strategy of olmesartan and shielding that there is real possibility that I will fully recover… even without moving to a low RF location like Green Bank, WV (which is not that low, still need shielding there).

Nyima However, of all the shielding I have done, I have found a bed canopy and floor mat to be the most effective (shielding at night is supposed to be more important for healing).

I made my own shielding canopy from the 30# shielding netting and bought one of these floor mats:

floor mats

Aaronia also do a bed canopy:

canopy

These are pretty expensive products but you could either use roofing foil in place of the mat (ask the forum which is best) or have your own canopy made from 30# fabric (or do both).

Nyima Apr 13th, 2016 Hi Karen the Aaronia canopies are strung across the room on taut wires so you can decide what height you put the wires.

If you have them lower than the full height of the canopy, you will have some of the netting gathering on the mat (like an over-long curtain). This isn't such a bad thing, because it might help with the 'seal' between the canopy and the mat.

The only other consideration you have is head-height - do you want to be able to stand up inside the canopy? Mine is not full-height as it would block too much light from my window, so I have mine set so that I can sit up and read comfortably in bed. I pull the canopy back to make the bed.

Prof. Marshall replied to bookdad I find the 4ft x 8ft x 6ft6” Faraday cage is actually very practical for sleeping, and provides complete isolation as you don't need any powered devices inside for sleeping. Did you see the quick video I linked from the faraday cage topic? I am working on a more complete description, but the quick video does explain how I did the door (I think it does, anyway).

Ron posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2015For years we have been sleeping in a very EMF noisy environment. At our bedside we had a classic DECT phone, two bulky 'Antifoni' IKEA lamps on a dimmer and a 230V clockradio. A couple of years ago I already replaced the phone with a new DECT ECO+ model. Now I took it a few steps further and also replaced the bedside lamps and the clock radio with models that use rechargeable batteries. I put them on a timer so they get only charged during the day. The double pole timer switch makes sure that EMF is totally eliminated during the night.

Here's my shopping list.

  ECO-mode plus DECT FRITZ!Fon M2
  Two rechargeable USB touch sensor lights
  DAB+ clock radio with built-in Li-Ion battery
  Powerful USB desktop charger
  Double pole timer switch

It all works like a charm. The DT-1130 EMF detector stays completely quiet when the timer switch is off. :)

And the 3 Amps charger charges both lamps and the radio. DAB+ quality is really nice too. Most of the cell towers broadcast these digital signals nowadays and we're in between two towers so why not use them.

Before shielding, the signal from the surrounding mobile towers peaked at -45dBm (on a good day) to -40dBm (on a bad day). A good first target for a significantly improved level would seem to be -65dBm, meaning I needed to see an improvement of 20 to 25dB. Reading other threads of people who have shielded rooms, I could see that this was possible but would not be easy. My choice of materials was:

Walls and Ceiling - Yshield paint

Windows - I decided to use Gila Platinum Window Film as a first approach. This has been assessed to only give around 20dB or so reduction, but it’s cheap, easily and quickly available, doesn’t take long to apply, is easy to remove, and does not preclude other approaches, such as a silver mesh covering. My guess was that the Gila probably wouldn’t get me to my target, but I was curious to give it a try. I did however expect to add silver mesh at some later stage.

Floor - I needed to take up the laminate floor to shield underneath it, so unlike the windows, this was a one-off operation that I had to get right first time. I decided to go with 120cm roofing foil, overlapped. It took a few attempts and samples before I identified a genuine aluminium product available in the UK.

Cupboards - Dr Marshall’s advice was to paint the backs of the cupboards with Yshield, and paint a foot or so on both sides of any surface that joined the wall or ceiling to stop leakage through these gaps. The floor inside the cupboard was to be treated with foil as the rest of the floor. The ceiling inside the cupboard was to be Yshield painted.

the following were important to the success of the project:

1. Pay attention to the details and sweat the small stuff! Waves get through small gaps. One mistake could compromise the entire project. 2. Watch out for the seams, joins and corners. These are the weakest points in any faraday cage, which is what I am trying to make. 3. Try to join everything up so that conductive surfaces are as large as possible.

The Foil I used: Foil (And do I like it? I have another 20 metres arriving tomorrow)

Gila Platinum Window Film: Window Film

Y shield HS54 general purpose shielding paint: general purpose shielding paint

Scotch Aluminium tape: aluminium Scotch tape 6 door - painted

door knobs, light switches in walls, plugs in walls were already metal, so I only needed to loosen them and make sure the Yshield went underneath them.

ceiling lights - took the fitting off and painted underneath it

door gaps - not yet entirely finished this!

vents - still working this out

It's now clear that I will need to shield the windows with silver mesh too.

My plan with the cupboards was to paint the back (wall) inside with Yshield, and also about a foot along anywhere the frame of shelves touched the wall or ceiling. My understanding is that this creates a waveguide within which the waves are attenuated. I’ll deal with the backs in a later post. Here I’ll just outline what I ended up doing with the frame.

Once I’d painted a foot from every wall, ceiling or floor join, I’d covered more than half of the entire frame. And some of the cupboard openings are only a few inches from the ceiling or floor, meaning I’d end up painting the inside of the frame too.

So to simplify things, I just painted the entire cupboard frame - everything apart from the doors.

Prof. Marshall posted Jan 2017 On our bed, Liz has a mattress, then a foam underlay which looks like an eggbox, and then the bottom sheet. The last time she stripped the bed we slipped some #30 mesh under the underlay, above the mattress. I didn't think it would do anything, but it did - it reduces the exposure to lower frequencies of a body lying close to it. Using an antenna tuned to FM radio, the Cornet shows 6-10dB lower FM radio signals within a foot of the mattress. I expect it would be some use over the 100MHz-400MHz range, and Liz reminded me that the 4ft wide aluminum foil would have done just as well. So there is something to try – it is not much of a help – but sometimes we have to take everything we can get.

Is it necessary to ground the YShield paint?

that is an electrical safety precaution. What I did was run about 2-4 ft of Nickel/Copper/Cobalt Fabric Tape (LessEMF Cat. #A225) conductive tape from a power box along the wall before starting the painting. You can't see the tape after painting. All the electrical box is for is so its metal case can give you a solid ground connection. I clamped the tape between the plug assembly and the metal tape with the screw which normally holds the plug assembly into the metal box.

I saw no increase in performance here with a second coat we applied to a critical wall. For us, one coat has 'just worked' on all the surfaces we painted.

yShield only needs earthing as an electrical-safety precaution, it has little effect on its shielding. I run a 2ft length of conductive tape under the paint to the body of a junction box. Some people run it to plug-earths. This video will show you how an amateur does it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeRHtGSVyb4&t=1m13s

A professional would only use about 2-3ft of tape for each patch of surface, provided the walls are fully painted they will be conductive over the whole surface. So one strap would provide for multiple connected walls. Also, I positioned the tape so that one of the screws used to fasten the box together firmly attaches the tape to the metal box.

None of the YouTube videos show how to do it properly, the same problem we have with all the other stuff in the interwebs about fixing EMF :X :X

- Dr Marshall

Prof. Marshall posted Jan 2016 I am using the yShield paint HSF54, with half a container of AF3 binding agent per 5L pail of paint. We painted inside our walk-in closet, as well as several other closets, and I didn't notice any particular problems with drying.

Over the HSF54, Liz used an water-based undercoat, then an acrylic color coat. On the last wall she only allowed a couple of hours for the HSF54 to dry.

April 2017 “Liz uses a primer over the yShield, and one coat of light color is then enough.”

Aluminium shielding laid in the roof space would help, but leaves a problem of no overlap with wall shielding.

This could be addressed in a new building but may be as difficult to explain to a builder, as the need for wide overlaps and extra careful seams to the average dressmaker.

Try to use aluminum sheeting if you can. Overlap is important.

Well, we're going ahead with the room shielding by installing the atticfoil on the floor under hardwood Rico 2016

If you are trying to shield from a high power source (e.g., a very close cell-tower) then overlap becomes all the more important in my mind. And I do have towers with cell antennas less than 900 feet from my home.

If you take a look at the photos from my “quiet room” project, you may notice the foil on the floor is overlapped to the point of being doubled for 18 inches on both sides. Now that was probably not necessary, but it made installation faster to simply lay the middle (foil face up) strip down and then lay the other two strips (foil face down) on top of it.

You can see that I left the yShield exposed below the baseboard line so I could overlap the foil onto the yShield on the walls for continuity.

- Joyful

David in UK: Aluminium Foil Under Laminate Flooring

Rather than Yshield paint the wooden floorboards - which have gaps and therefore problems with continuity - I used a 120cm polypropylene-backed aluminium foil. To ensure conductivity I reversed each strip of foil so aluminium touches aluminium. I used clout nails to keep the foil in place.

At the edges I pressed the foil up against the Yshield painted skirting board and also used aluminium tape over the join.

In one of two places I even got the foil into the cupboards

TM Our windows used Low-E glass, so they were easier to manage. But even with care we only achieved about 20dB shielding, maybe 30dB in the bedroom.

“Windows blocked” is achieved two ways in our house. The North-facing windows are an Infra-Red reflecting/absorbing type, for energy saving, which also does a very good job of stopping any Microwave penetration (better than 20dB).

We have two windows which don't get sun on them, and therefore the contractors put in cheap glass. The one in my computer room is currently covered with shim aluminum. The paint is extended along the edges of the window frame, where the window sits, and the shim is taped to the window frame with Gaffer tape.

Windows are difficult to work with.

I have tried curtains of various fabrics. They work, but a lot of signal leaks past them. The IR-reflecting glass really does a good job of reflecting RF. Almost as good a job as the ySHield paint (15-25dB actual, rated 40dB). I haven't tried the films, as they really don't seem to perform well, and the films are not suitable for cascading (if you already have UV film you cant add an IR to it)(and not really suitable for surreptitiously applying as the bubbles, etc, will probably be visible). Trevor Marshall, PhD

The Chinese use a lot of window shielding for clinics, etc, and they seem to use a fairly heavy high-metal-content 'fabric':

product-detail/Ni-co-Conductive-Anti-radiation-Fabric_753201930

and product-detail/1-35-Meter-in-Width-Ni_699670403

were unavailable at time of editing, for information on these and other items stocked

inquire at Alibaba.com buyer request

Besides window film, SS mesh is an idea: 100-mesh-woven-stainless-63 stainless-high-transparency-0012

Mike 2017

The film from Canada, Safe Living Technologies, SLTWF1 worked really well. With my new test setup I measured 35-40dBm, just about the same as a good fabric, and 10dB higher than the cheaper window film.

Professor T Marshall 2015

Window film isn't a very good shield, although it does retain its performance to very high frequencies. Typically you only get 25dB from a commercial window film. The very best I have seen is 45dB (that was a military film), with the high-performance varieties averaging 35dB. That is way below what aluminum attic-foil can give (in excess of 55dB, probably about 70dB). Close-mesh stainless steel approaches that level of performance at lower microwave frequencies, but I am not sure how important the higher frequencies are at this point in time.

The key is low-resistance joints and good overlap. Hard to envisage with that arrangement, plus the door will not seal all that well (it will be able to match the 25dB of the film, however).

How much shielding do you need? Well, several of us, the ones who have been trying to establish a threshold of “perfection,” can notice a big difference between -60dBm (where the sniffer goes quiet on HI sensitivity) and below. Our Faraday cage is in a -65dBm to -75dBm room (depends on frequency) and it makes a huge difference to symptoms and comfort. So when you are still sensitive, shielding of the order of 25dB is better achieved with #92 clothing, in my opinion.

A sleeping cage/tent should give 40-50dB of shielding to be fully effective in the average metropolitan environment, IMO

-35dBm (Sniffer on LO, about 3 ticks per second) starting point 55dBm shielding results in -90dBm electrosmog, or about the level the 27MHz CWS puts out, and still around 3 bars on a cellphone receiver. It really is better to get another 20dB on top of this, preferably by starting with a better environment (-60dBm).

..Trevor..

At this point I am fixated on getting sleeping enclosures which are as close to completely quiet as possible. When that is matched with a reasonable work environment and low-radiation computers, terminals, etc, during the day, it seems as though the #92 shielded clothing will provide adequate productivity and sanity until it is time to hit the Faraday Cage again for some real deep sleep. Healing seems to be primarily facilitated during real deep sleep in an ultra-quiet environment.

Prof Trevor Marshall 2017

TM Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2015 16:17 We had dual-glazed windows installed a year ago. Turns out that the Infra-red attenuation built into them also attenuates RF reasonably well. When I get the room fully shielded I will be able to evaluate how good the windows really are, but they seem to be better than 15dB. You can also buy film to put on the window panes which will reflect signals. Prof Trevor Marshall 2015

Posted: Mon May 1st, 2017 I have sewn the 100 mesh .0012“ wire 316 stainless steel together with a standard sewing machine with no difficulty. Edges need to be stabilized first using fabric glue so that they don't ravel; I usually apply the fabric glue before cutting pieces.

The mesh used in front of the computer monitor or TV, in my opinion, needs to be sandwiched between two plexiglass pieces to keep it from warping, to keep it flat. That is what I did for the computer monitor.

If you have various electronic equipment in your yShield painted rooms, they have to be enclosed in shielded boxes, their own Faraday cage, with a jug of water, preferably a gallon of water, to absorb the RF generated by the electronics located inside the box. So, it is best to minimize what you bring into the rooms because of the hassle to shield them, and the shielding won't be perfect because of wires, which will all need a hefty amount of ferrite beads to minimize RF noise as best as can be done.

Prof. Marshall February 2015 Doors remain unknown, but we will paint them, and the frame, and see what we get. I don't anticipate any problems (while they are closed). Gaps will have to be sealed with a grille, of course.

Page 2 of the “9500 Honeycomb vents” document from Holland Shielding contains some limited data at 1/4 and 1/2 thickness, hole size 0.137, shows once you get to 1/2” thickness the performance is pretty good down to the AM radio band, but also that the 1/4“ thick panel is not nearly as good as the 1/2inch and thicker panels…

https://hollandshielding.com/content/Filemanager/9500-Honeycomb-vents-Technical-datasheet.pdf_January-30-2017-955am.pdf

*** jezzer posted: Thu Nov 24th, 2016 “Is there a linear relationship between the surface area of the body that is protected and reduction of the effects of EMF or is any small part of exposure going to give the same effect as no protection at all - ref. EMF propagating within the body ?”

TM “What you are asking is one of the most imponderable questions. You are asking whether microwave-photons passing through a body dissipate their energy purely in collisions with the body's particles (electrons,protons, bosons, quarks, black matter, etc) or whether their influence extends beyond their immediate surroundings (this dilemma is at the basis of all quantum electrodynamics).

In other words, does the water (which makes up the majority of a human body) 'conduct' microwave-photon energy from one point in a body's mass to more distant points? Does the microwave energy impinging on a finger affect only the atoms in that finger, or does that energy somehow affect the overall energy of the arm, the neck, the brain, etc. What is the function of nerves and the vasculature? Are they acting as cables? Perhaps as antennas?

There are two possible factors in this puzzle that I have accepted at this point. The first is simple - to note that if a body is at -60dBm, and wants to get to -90dBm, then that 30dB difference is 1000 times lower amplitude, and even tiny leakages will have an impact. If you are wearing a hood made of the best 50dB #92 fabric, for example, the size of the hole at the front (which your face, nose and eyes peek through) is going to determine whether the overall shielding performance is 50dB or close to zero.

Notice the elastic draw-cord around the face-hole. This allows adjustment of the size of the hole in order to draw it down small in difficult environments, or open it up when shielding is less important. Kinda like you use a Hoodie in a cold wind

In fact, this design can be made to look very much like a hoodie, with people most commonly noting “isn't it a bit chilly today” as you walk into a store…

The hole size doesn't have to go down to zero, especially if the impinging waves are a longer wavelength (like FM radio) where the whole hood looks kinda like a wire antenna. At the most common 4G frequencies here in California (700-900MHz) an inch or two diameter still allows for pretty good shielding. but for 5000MHz WiFi, you have to reduce that size by 5, which is kinda prohibitive, and a limiting factor to protecting the brain. Remember that the brain controls the immune system, your blood glucose level, and probably a whole lot more

Extend that thinking to a hole at the bottom of a torso cover (shirt), a hole which is typically more than a foot in diameter. If our body, perhaps through its nervous system, transfers 1/1000 of the energy from the waist to the brain then our target shielding of 30dB will not be reached by a hood alone, or even a hood and shirt firmly connected at the neck (see the drawstring around the neck to firmly connect to the 'shirt' collar?)

OK, that's the easy part to understand The second factor is whether the water at the basis of all life is actually a player in energy transfer. Is water a boson-like fluid (the quantum description), or is it just dihydrogen monoxide (the classical model). As more and more scientists observe nano-molecular sub-structures in water the classical model is being pushed to the background. Maybe water has the ability to redistribute energy throughout its mass. If so, then careful shielding of a whole body would be necessary to achieve our 30dB shielding target.

It actually isn't hard to achieve 100% shielding, the problem is to do it in such a way that other humans don't instantly label you as a lunatic (or worse). I have been working on that…

TM posted: Mon Apr 25th, 2016 One of the options available to those of us who are very sensitive, or living in a high-RF environment, is to protect ourselves during sleep using shielding. One excellent option for doing this is to make a rigid Faraday Cage.

Even with care, the best you are going to get from retro-fitting a house or an apartment is around 20dB (100 times). This will make a difference, but to really get your body working again is going to take signal levels in the -90dBm range (my best guess as at 26 April 2016). A good Faraday cage can achieve more than 40dB of shielding (10,000 times), making an adequately quiet sleeping environment a possibility for most of us.

I am building a small (5ft high, 3ft wide, 6ft long) experimental Faraday cage using a timber frame totally covered with a single layer of yShield HEG03 stainless steel ultra-fine wire mesh, and will document the results over the next couple of months.

The main thing I want to define is the best way to construct the cage. It is critical to have overlapped edges, and to have tight seams. Here is a YouTube video showing how much extra shielding you get when taping around the lid of a garbage can. Even what might seem a negligible gap can leak quite a bit of RF. In this video taping the lid with about a 1” overlap of (2“) aluminium tape increased shielding from 10 times to more than 20,000 times.

yShield say a 6cm overlap should be the design goal, I have been suggesting at least 6 inches (15cm) for the aluminium foil, and this may be overkill. I am building a frame with 6cm overlap to test out this, and other design factors.

The mesh goes underneath the bed as well to give maximum shielding)

The Odin mouse will work with the copper 100 mesh .0012” wire screen, but not the .0045“ wire mesh screen. So, with a fiberoptic cable that does not have metal in it, with a terminating modem that converts to USB on both ends, that can be powered with a 5 VDC 'power bank' cell phone battery, the system can be shielded nicely. Then the keyboard and Odin mouse will work inside the Faraday cage and enable access to the computer.

The hitch is that the fiber system will set you back $1500. However, it is substantially cheaper than the $2600 MRI rated (the high powered medical imaging device) all plastic trackball, which still does not give you the keyboard.

So there is a solution for those of us that are debilitated by exposure to the RF from a mouse and keyboard.

Mike May 2018 Just for background, my goal has been to spend as much daytime in the room I converted to a Faraday cage, and this meant making the computer accessible from the room without compromising the Faraday cage. So far, the monitor and trackball part of this problem has been solved.

Since changing to the zero RF trackball as mentioned last week, this week had lower neuro IP and muscle knots. Also, the keyboard use was minimized and when not in use it was disconnected to reduce exposure to its radiating RF. Further, as a result of improved neuro IP and muscle knots I was able to increase activities that normally significantly increased muscle knots, and hence, function level this week was marked as improved from a 5 to a 7.

One last change made this week was that I went ahead and ordered enough copper 100 mesh .0012” wire screen and replaced the dual layer .0045” screen in the Faraday room’s door. The difference in transparency (I view the 27” monitor through the door screen) is enormous. Because the .0012” wire screen likely does not shield as well I put some water bottles between the screen layers to absorb any RF that passes the first screen. The result was that there was no detectable AM radio frequency RF noise from the local AM radio station or monitor passing through the door screens. So from my point of view, the computer monitor use from the Faraday room is 100% solved.

I wasn't able to get the level below -70dBm in our house. IMO, once the IP has worked itself out, this level ought to be good enough to maintain 'health'

- Trevor Marshall

When you shield down to -90dBm the IP goes through the roof. New IP, from areas that haven't been very active before. But it is IP, and it follows the trajectory of what we saw on Olmesartan alone, namely, the symptoms drop over time and a new state of health envelops the body and mind. It is possible (sometimes) to ease up on the shielding and back off the IP a little.

- Trevor Marshall

Posted: 17 March 2015 14:04

Paisley, you would have noticed (I hope) Joyful, Mike and I talking about how waves change our immune systems.

Now this is an heretical statement, which will have every physicist, engineer and medic on the planet after my neck, but what I am finding, and it seems to be confirmed by Mike and Joyful's experience, is that even the slightest quantity of radio waves profoundly affect the ability of the brain to properly control the immune system.

As you switch off DECT phones and WiFi your immune system becomes more active (unless you live next to a cell-tower). By using silver clothing, or in my case, by also painting rooms with Yshield shielding, you gradually drop the exposure of your brain even further. As you do, the brain adjusts as well, leading to the immune system becoming exquisitely sensitive.

The CWS have a long-term effect on our nerves. Members report changes in fibro pain, or in my case disappearance of neuropathy, reporting that this lasts, you don't need to keep using the CWS. So there is something very profound happening in our bodies as we reduce the microwave-radiation levels.

Even though we may be returning our bodies to a 'natural state' before all this pollution was floating around, it is a brittle process, and it is incremental. I am still not at a point where I can handle the IP from sleeping in our fully-quieted room yet. This wave stuff is so terribly important. We are so sensitive that all the other researchers (except the 1978 EEG study) have been using powers 1 million times greater than what the body starts responding to. We have floating in a typical suburban environment 1000 times the power our brain can sense, and as we pass cell-phone towers, 100 million times the threshold level. It is amazing the body can adapt at all!

Your immune system has been operating for decades in this pea-soup of wave-pollution. Your body has adjusted to this as a 'normal' level of immune-activation. Suddenly you are giving your body a chance to work 'properly' again.

So when you get these changes, try and think of them in terms of 'waves exposure.' I find that allows me to keep a much better tab on what is happening. And remember that a totally clean environment is not something that any of Mike, Joyful's or my body is totally comfortable with just yet. We still have some inflammation to work down…

And that 2 minute exposure to your microwave oven while you heated your midday meal? - I found that would knock me out all afternoon and evening…

- Trevor Marshall

DIY Faraday Cage

The right to work in just and favourable conditions

The right to social protection, to an adequate standard of living and to the highest attainable standards of physical and mental well-being

journalist exposes wifi disaster